Changing Gears and other Adventures

Casa Rural to Santiago de Compostela - 40 km -749 meters (2,457 ft) of climbing

One might have thought that our last ride into Santiago would be an easy one, but "no" for two reasons. First, the terrain was like the day before (i.e. 'challenging' from our perspective) and second, we had a deadline. There is a pilgrim's mass every day in Santiago at noon. Having been blessed at the beginning of our journey, we felt a need to be blessed at the end of it. This meant that we had to be in Santiago before noon. Most of the folks on our trip had an extra day so it was not a problem for them. We, along with our friends Peter and Colleen, did not have any leeway. This meant leaving early in the morning and 'hoofing' it to Santiago. Peter and Colleen made it easily - we did it, but barely. Climbing that last hill into Santiago had me at my limit.
The effort was worth it.
The contrast between the tiny church in Roncesvalles where we started this journey and the magnificence of the cathedral in Santiago was almost overwhelming. The cathedral was jammed with pilgrims. The ceremony included music - led by a nun who had an angelic voice which reverberated throughout the cathedral.

The British know how to do 'pomp and circumstance'. The Catholic church knows how to do religious splendour. As in Roncesvalles, the list of numbers of pilgrims, their starting points and their countries of origin was read out. At the culmination of the ceremony was a blessing of the pilgrims. However, the highlight was the spectacular swinging of the huge Botafumeiro, the famous thurible kept in the cathedral. Incense is burned in this swinging metal container and swung over the assembled pilgrims. It was thrilling. If you have seen the movie "The Way" you will have some idea of what I am talking about.
After the Mass, we lined up at the Oficio del Peregrino (Pilgrim Office) to receive a Compestela - proof that we had travelled the Camino. The fellow behind me in line was from Montreal - he had walked the northern route along the coast of Spain.
We spent the rest of the day exploring Santiago. We finished our tour with a splendid farewell dinner. This time, I did try the octopus and have to confess that it was quite tasty!
My lasting memory of the day, however, was coming across a women at the door of the cathedral. She was on her knees and in tears with her pack and walking stick at her side. I resisted the inclination to take a photograph. This was a private moment - the culmination of her pilgrimage.
It was a fitting culmination to our journey.

Portomarin to Casa Rural in Touro - 78 km - 1,603 meters (5,259 ft) of climbing

When the tour guides candidly admitted at breakfast that this day would be the most challenging on the tour, my knees turned to jelly. Perhaps not too surprisingly, their prediction was correct.
We started out with a 15 km sustained climb. This was followed by 14 "ups and downs" spread over the remaining 63 km. These were not 'rolling' hills but significant climbs followed by steep, difficult downhills with virtually no flat terrain in between. It was hot - I quickly became grumpy! But hey, we Canadians are a determined lot.
Along the way, our journey was interrupted by cows - on two occasions. Taking pictures provided much needed breaks.

We stopped for lunch at Melide, specifically at a restaurant famous for its octopus. Bill tried it, I did not!

We carried on. Our reward was arriving at our lodging for the night - a country inn that was more than 300 years old. The accommodation (and food) were amazing.

We all revelled in its tranquility.

Tomorrow - Santiago!

Astorga to Cacabelos - 76 km - 1150 meters (3,773 ft) of climbing

Sunday was another lovely day with temperatures in the mid 20's. After 20 km of 'gentle' climbing, we started up the Montes de Leon. It was a steep 15 km climb and there were many moments when 'granny gear' was not low enough. At the top of the climb (the highest point on the route we are following across northern Spain) was the Cruz de Ferro - a simple iron cross standing on top of a weathered pole. It has become a well known symbol of the Camino. It has been traditional for pilgrims to leave a stone at the base of the pole. It is believed that the stone is symbolic of the sins, sorrows, and losses that we carry with us. By leaving it behind at the Cruz de Ferro, we shed those things we no longer need to "carry" through life. Bill and I left two pebbles that we had carried with us from Whalebone beach on Gabriola.

The descent was steep and treacherous so about half of us (including me) opted to take the shuttle down. At the bottom, we had lunch at the charming village of Molinaseca.

Then is was on to our destination of Cacabelos. En route we passed through Ponferrada - a modern looking city. Just before leaving Proferrada, we came around a corner and were faced with a magnificent 12th Century Templar castle!

The countryside became noticeably greener over the day and as we neared Cacabelos, we saw orchards of apples and pears.

Cacabelos to O'Cebreio - 38 km - goodness knows how many meters of climbing!

On Monday we crossed into Galicia - a region thought by many to resemble Ireland. Getting there, however, was a significant challenge. There was a reason that the day's distance was only 38 km.
It was another sunny day but with temperatures getting up into the 30s. After about 28 km of cycling on fairly flat roads through lush forest, we arrived at Herrerias. There were two options on how to go the last 10 km: one could walk the Camino path up to O'Cebreiro or cycle on the road up to the same destination. I chose to walk in large part because I wanted to experience at least part on the Camino on foot. This 10 km stretch is the steepest on the route but it wound it's way through forest and up along ridges with breathtaking views. Wearing Keens (not really the footwear of choice) and cycling clothes and carrying a fanny pack, I joined other pilgrims climbing the switchbacks. What struck me was the silence and the opportunity to really take in one's surroundings. It was a memorable experience. Here are some pictures from my walk.

Bill and others chose to cycle. Given that the average pitch of the road was in the 10 - 12% range (and some spots even steeper) Bill too walked a portion of the Camino!

O'Cebreiro has catered to the needs of pilgrims since the turn of first millennium. It's ancient stone buildings - many with thatched roofs - have clearly stood the test of time. It seems to sit on top of the world.

The church in O'Cebreiro dates back to the 9th century. Two couples on our trip (one celebrating their 30th anniversary - the other having been married for more than 52 years) chose to renew their vows in this church. We all attended and although the service was in Spanish, it was a moving ceremony.

This was the fifth time that Enrico (one of our guides) had been in O'Cebreiro but it was the first time that he was able to see this tiny hamlet in the sunshine! These mountains are open to the westerly winds coming across the Atlantic and so heavy rain and thick fog are common - even in the summer. I am not sure why we have been so lucky with the weather.

As the surroundings might suggest, it was simple fare in O'Cebreiro. One highlight was the caldo gallego a hearty soup of kale, white beans and potatoes, all in a thick broth. The heat of the day was quickly lost as the sun set so the soup was much appreciated.

O'Cebreiro to Portomarin - 70 km - 1003 meters (3,290 ft) of climbing

Leaving O'Cebreiro in the sunshine and cycling the breathtaking downhill to Samos without going through a low cloud was somewhat of a miracle. The good weather continued although it became quite warm and humid by early afternoon.

At Samos we were taken on a guided tour of the Benedictine monastery. It is a magnificent building built first in the 6th century. With only 14 monks in residence (and no novices), it is difficult to see how this monastery can be maintained.

After the our tour, we enjoyed a picnic lunch prepared by our guides. It consisted of a wonderful an array of local meats, cheeses, bread and fruit. Our daily burning of significant calories is, unfortunately, exceeded by our intake from the wonderful food on this trip!

Leon
Friday was a rest day in Leon - a beautiful city established originally by the Romans as a garrison for its VII th Legion. The city name is a contraction of the word 'legion' and has nothing to do with 'lions'. The Roman remains now support the medieval walls of the city.

The focus of our brief visit was a guided visit to the splendid Gothic Leon Cathedral. It is not as immense as the cathedral in Burgos but the 2,000 square meters of stained glass in the windows cast a changing light that was breathtaking and joyful. Just as the positioning of a cathedral is important (entry door at the west end, altar at the east end,) the choice of colour and subject matter of the glass windows mirrored the journey from the 'darkness' of the old testament to the 'light' brought by the birth of Christ. The detailed explanations provided by our guide was fascinating.

We also spent a few quiet moments in the Romanesqe Basilica of St. Isodoro, a much smaller church that had been built over a Roman temple. A number of marble columns from the temple have found their way into this church.

Finally, we visited Antonio Gaudi's Casa de Botines a building designed and built for commercial purposes. This is one of the three buildings that Gaudi built outside of Barcelona. Gaudi was a Spanish Catalan architect (1852 - 1926) whose works reflected a highly distinctive style inspired by nature. Sadly, I can not find a photograph of this building.

We also spent time doing such mundane things as laundry!

Our hotel was located in the Plaza Mayer.

When we woke up Saturday morning, the plaza had been transformed into a massive marketplace. He is one of the vendors.

Leon to Astorga - 64km - 628 meters (2,060 ft) of climbing

This was a beautiful ride with little wind and temperatures remaining in the mid 20's. After a climb out of Leon, we cycled on quiet back roads. Although we were still on the meseta, the countryside became much greener with a variety of vegetation and crops - including hops.

One stopping point was the Hospital de Orbigo a charming village beside the Orbigo River. The Puente de Orbigo was built by the Knights Templar in the 13th Century (over the remains of an old Roman bridge) thereby eliminating a serious obstacle for pilgrims. The bridge also played a role in the Don Quixote folk legend of Spain. It seems that in 1434, the knight Suero, spurned by his lady-love, challenged any knight crossing the bridge to declare his love to be the most beautiful in all Castile. Those who refused, were challenged to a dual. After successfully breaking the lances of 300 knights, Suero carried on the Santiago to give thanks for his freedom from the bounds of love and the restoration of his honour.

Astorga was a key Roman town, fortified to defend the most important Roman transportation routes - gold from Bierzo, silver from Galicia and copper from Asturias. By the 13th Century, the town had become an important pilgrim's stopover.

The massive Cathedral in Astorga was built between 1470 and 1700.

Across from the Cathedral is the somewhat bizarre 'Bishops' Palace' designed and built by Antonio Gaudy. The eclectic design building caused considerable controversy among both local residents and the clergy itself. As a result, construction was halted for more than 50 years . Although finally finished in 1963, it has never been occupied by bishops and today houses a museum dedicated to the Camino.

Internet connectivity is "iffy" in this part of the world so I am woefully behind. Sheer exhaustion at the end of our daily rides has also played a part!
In case it is not clear from the following, the wind in Spain blows mainly in one's face!

Santo Domingo de la Calzada to Burgos - Burgos - 91 km - 1,147 meters (3,763 ft) of climbing

On Tuesday, we started our climb up the Montes de Oca (the northern-most hills of the Iberian Mountains) to the meseta - the plain that extends across much of northern Spain. After a gentle beginning to the day, there were two relatively long climbs. The day was sunny and hot - temperatures in the low 30s. Although we were not aware of it until after the first climb, there was also a significant head wind which stayed with us for the remainder of the day. It was brutal, especially for those of us who do not do well in heat. However, much of the climbing was done on back roads with virtually no traffic. It meant that one could choose the appropriate `line`to traverse across a switchback. Here is a view from the first climb.

We stopped for a picnic lunch (catered by our tour leaders) at San Juan de Ortega. For pilgrims, this location has been an oasis amid the dangers of the Montes de Orca. It was established by Juan Valazquez, a disciple of Domingo (see yesterday's blog). Juan built a hospice in the woods which thrived and attracted the patronage of others. This led to the building of a church that remains today. Here is a picture of Bill and I in front of the church. You will note the shells hanging from our packs. The shell is a sign of a pilgrim on the Camino.

San Juan de Ortega is a meeting place for pilgrims, many of whom broke out their cell phones on arrival!

I had started out the day feeling not particularly well and by the lunch stop at San Juan de Ortega (61 km), I was decidedly not well. I pedalled on for another 15 km and then `shuttled`into town.` Bill continued on and when he reached the hotel, he found me in bed asleep.
I rallied because the cathedral at Burgos (initially built in the 13th century), is one of Spain`s greatest Gothic cathedrals. Here is the view of the cathedral from our hotel room. The cathedral is immense and must have been almost overwhelming to pilgrims in Medieval times.

Burgos is also the home of the 11th century mercenary, El Cid - a legendary knight who fought for whichever side would pay him - Christians, Moors and Jews. History has been kind and he is best known for ridding Spain of the Moors in the `Reconquista`.

This was a `dinner on your own`night so six of us ate in a small restaurant recommended by our guides. It was simple and delicious meal and allowed for a much needed early retirement. Dinner in Spain does not begin until 8 pm (at the earliest). The dinners we have enjoyed as part of the tour have generally not been over until after 10pm!

Burgos to Carrion de los Condes - 99 km - 982 meters (3,221 ft) of climbing

Yesterday, we travelled across the meseta, a stretch of plain having many thousands of small villages. Most of these villages exist today because of the Camino. The meseta was the `breadbasket`of the Roman Empire and remains one of the most productive wheat farming regions in the Mediterranean. The vistas are like those found on the Canadian prairies'. From a cycling perspective, however, the terrain is not flat as we were in and out of a number of river valleys.

We had lunch in Castrojeriz, a town used by the Romans to guard the road to the gold mines in Galacia.

Overlooking Castrojeriz are the ruins of a large Medieval castle. Restorations have just begun. Later in the afternoon we stopped for ice tea in Fromista, a town along side the Canal de Castilla. This canal was dug in the late 18th century to carry irrigation water from the Cantabrian mountains to the meseta.

Once again it was HOT and WINDY. Cycling downhill required pedalling if forward progress was to be made. Our hotel, another monastery (in the process of being restored), was on the outskirts of town - green and tranquil. It was a welcome oasis after an exhausting day. Before dinner, Philipp, one of our tour guides gave us a wonderful tour of the old church and monastery. The restoration process has uncovered the less ornate Romanesque architecture of the original church. We had not appreciated the logic and consistency behind the building of a monastery.

Carrion de los Condes to Leon - 109 km - 756 meters (2,480 ft) of climbing

Although today's ride was the longest to date, it was not as difficult as the ride the day before. Mercifully the temperature had dropped to the low 20's and it was partly cloudy. The wind, however, had not diminished.

To a large extent, our road paralleled the Camino walking paths of packed gravel and so we saw many pilgrims headed to Santiago. I now understand why so many of these pilgrims walk with their heads bowed: it is because they are walking into strong head winds!

Unfortunately we have few pictures of the day and our focus was simply to get to Leon.

Tomorrow is a rest day!